So let's talk about Kürtősh - one of Hungary's many breads.
Of course I’d heard of chimney cakes. Some time ago, I
learned that somewhere in Sydney there was a café which made them, but I had no
real concept of what they were.
No one said they were Hungarian. No one mentioned they were
like a baked doughnut. I don’t even remember anyone disclosing that they are
the closest thing to nirvana.
It took a trip to Wellington, New Zealand, and a morning
stroll through the city’s Sunday morning
riverside markets for me to have my first taste of them when I found a stall serving towers of dough rings, baked golden, lustrous with sugar,
showered with cinnamon, crusty with nuts.
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I knew immediately what they were, but no way did I realise how
they were made. Basically it’s this: a rope of tender pliable bun dough is
wound around a thick greased wooden rolling pin, covering its 20centimetre or
so length. The dough is anointed with melted butter, rolled in sugar then
placed in an open sided ‘oven’ where it rotates in front of the glowing
heat-source, baking and caramelising. Think, doner kebabs, to get an
approximate idea of the method.
But that’s where the similarity stops. The result is a
million times better than the humble doner.
Once cooked, the kürtősh tower is released from its rolling
pin, rolled in whatever topping is requested, then wrapped for the next person
in the lengthening queue. Once I had mine, I ate it perched on a nearby
concrete wall. It was too good to wait another moment for.
Back home in Sydney I couldn't wait to visit one of the string of the (now) four
Kürtősh cafes in my town, Randwick, Crows Nest, Surry Hills and, newest,
Darlinghurst. Find them all here.
Surry Hills worked well for me, right near the end of Crown
Street where it meets Cleveland. Parking right outside, amazing aromas from
inside, a table, coffee, what more could I want?
I shared my kürtősh (did I mention that unless carbs are your best
friend, a whole one is a little daunting to consume solo) and it had the same
effect on my friend as my virgin kürtősh-tasting had on me.
Although the flavour is similar, unlike a doughnut, there is
a pastry crispness to kürtősh, in counterpoint to the cooked but tender inner
parts.
The café also had a long display counter of
cakes and other goodies. Better still, little tastes were available and I have
to say that ‘Mum’s chocolate cake’ was made by a Mum who truly knew what she
was doing. None of that chemical, bulk cake mixture flavour, just good home
cooking.
Now, you could consume these delicious things forever
without a care in the world for their pedigree or provenance, but just in case
you need a bit of history with your kürtősh, it is this: the name kürtősh comes
from kürtőskalács - a traditional Hungarian pastry famously known as chimney
cake. This cylindrical yeast pastry is often sold as street snacks from carts
all over Hungary. Once a festive treat, now it is part of everyday consumption.
If you are interested in knowing more, kürtősh has quite an interesting past. Read about
it.
